Or, shall we say, fall apart on that all-important textural level. And it’s true that aspirational quesos usually fall flat. It’s a soothing melt of processed cheese (no serious cheese need apply) that is not too thick and not too runny but juuuussst right. His chile con queso is as unaffected and effective as that Chango Burger. So I discovered one of my new favorite everyday (as in 5-buck) cheeseburgers at the ineffable Monkey’s Tail Northside bar last week - gloriously smashed and smartly pared down to its crucial elements.īut it turned out chef and director of operations Steven Ripley had another genre hit in store - one that is quintessential to Houston.
Queso at Monkey’s Tail Alison Cook / Staff Queso at Monkey’s Tail Yeah, the dish pushed at the edge of my salt tolerance, and then leapt right over the barrier and skated home. At the heart of the deep onion sweetness lay the salty savor of anchovy. Like the radish salad, the hillock of spaghetti was alive with texture: crisped garlic breadcrumbs, al dente noodles, meltingly soft strands of deeply bronzed onion gossamer curls of Parmesan. Even though news of the onion salmonella scare hadn’t broken yet, I can now look back upon my meal without gulping, hard.
#Your chronicle anchovy sandwich plus
Plus the ingredients would be carefully sourced, as they are at all chef-owner Yu’s places. I wondered what Clayton - who has a deft hand with pasta - would do with the idea, and the dish seemed suitably autumnal. I happen to make a killer onion spaghetti myself, although I haven’t done it for way too long. This was the dish that got me in my car and on my way to Squable for the first time in nearly two years. Spaghetti with caramelized onion and toasted breadcrumbs at Squable Alison Cook / Staff Caramelized Onion Spaghetti at Squable on weekdays, happy-hour pricing of half off all the well-chosen wines and meticulously made cocktails is in effect. The effect was as cool and invigorating as the late fall afternoon, when I like to hit Squable and perch at the outdoor counter that opens into the restaurant. Lemon kicked in a boost of tartness, and a flurry of blue cheese crumbles wrote a brisk, salty edge. Thinly cut slivers of honeycrisp apple added yet another layer of texture.
#Your chronicle anchovy sandwich full
The different radish varietals were all treated differently: some fresh and full of water-flush crispness others salted and denser, with a more fermented effect.
An entire salad-size plateful of sliced-to-order radishes in different hues was just what my doctor might have ordered for me. Still, when I saw a salad of varicolored heirloom radishes on the current menu at Squable, the Justin Yu/Bobby Heugel spot where Oxheart alum Mark Clayton runs the kitchen, I figured I could indulge my radish yearnings without fear. Yet too often, said slices have been sitting around desiccating in a kitchen tub or they are too thick or the radishes are too old.
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